Heavens and pleasure – a suitable pairing, isn’t it? Yet in present-day Athens, access to havens is opaque and their pleasures are afforded to only a few. Drawing on the two speakers’ two years of experience with/in the artist residency Onassis AiR, this lecture-dialogue will explore how pleasures and collectivities clash with institutional demands for productivity and control. Speaking from two perspectives, inside and out, together they will ask: whose pleasure is it, after all?